If you’ve dined in Hawaii on wok-charred ahi tuna, macadamia nut-crusted local fish, Kalua pig, Marui Nui venison or smoked taro hummus, you can thank Chef Peter Merriman. He is one of 12 chef- pioneers of Hawaii regional cuisine which emphasizes locally sourced ingredients from farmers and fisherman.
Hawaii’s Talented Twelve includes Peter Merriman, Sam Choy, Philippe Padovani, Roger Dikon, Gary Strehl, Roy Yamaguchi, Amy Ferguson Ota, Jean-Marie Josselin, George Mavrothalassitis, Beverly Gannon, Mark Ellman and Alan Wong. They were all part of a transformative shift in modern dining that swept the United States in the mid-1980s in what is known as the American Culinary Revolution. The origin of ingredients, recognition for farmers, fisherman and other local purveyors and fresh, organic food became the center of the plate and stars in their own right.
Peter Merriman
The seeds of Merriman’s culinary future were first planted in Pittsburgh where he was born, thanks to his food-centric family. His mother, Woodene Merriman, worked as the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette food editor. Noting her son’s interest in cooking, she arranged a job for him at H.J. Heinz Co. doing prep work for Ferdinand Metz, who later became president of the Culinary Institute of America. After graduating the University of Pennsylvania where he studied political science and played football, Merriman enrolled in a three-year chef’s apprentice program at Rock Resorts under the auspices of the American Culinary Federation.
In early 1983, Peter was hired as a cook for the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel on the big island of Hawaii. In 1985, he was appointed executive chef of the Mauna Lani Resort’s new Gallery Restaurant. Merriman wanted to showcase the bounty of Hawaii, from fresh-caught Pacific fish to local pasture-raised cattle and the many herbs, fruits and vegetables that flourish in the islands. Back then the concept of Hawaiian regional cuisine was non-existent. A determined Merriman worked hard to cultivate strong relationships with Hawaiian farmers and fisherman to source ingredients.
Merriman’s Kalua Pork Sweet Onion Quesadilla Photo: Steve Czerniak
In 1988, Merriman opened his signature upcountry restaurant, Merriman’s, on the Big Island of Hawaii to national acclaim. He earned the moniker “a gourmet in cowboy country” by Hawaiian Airlines Hana Hou! magazine. Over the years, he has opened Merriman’s in Kapalua (Maui), Honolulu and Poipu (Kauai). He also has casual concepts including Hula Grill in Maui (with TS Restaurants) and Monkeypod Kitchen (with Handcrafted Restaurants). Last August we had a delightful dinner overlooking the beach at one of his newer restaurants, Ulu Kitchen by Merriman at the Westin Kaanapali in Maui. Merriman has legions of fans and has earned considerable acclaim. The Los Angeles Times called him the “Pied Piper of Hawaii Regional Cuisine.”
Mai Tai with Lilikoi Honey Foam Photo courtesy of Merriman’s
All of Merriman’s restaurants and staff operate under the mission statement, “Do the right thing.” This means serving the community, respecting the land (‘aina) and delivering a memorable dining experience. To help foster the careers of future food professionals, Merriman’s culinary scholarships support students entering or continuing in the field of culinary arts at either Hawaii Community College or the University of Hawaii Center at West Hawaii. Merriman serves on the Board of Directors for Hawaii Island Land Trust, a non-profit organization dedicated to protecting land in Hawaii.
Every time we visit Maui, we always welcome a chance to dine at one of Peter Merriman’s restaurants. The food, drink and atmosphere are always exceptional. Mahalo! A Hui Hoi!🌅🍍(until we meet again)
Merriman’s Wok-Charred Ahi Photo: Steve Czerniak
Merriman’s in Kapalua (Maui)
Listen to our conversation with Peter Merriman on The Connected Table Live here
Watch on The Connected Table TV here: