The late Andrea Franchetti, founder of Vini Franchetti and Passopisicaro Srl, is considered one of the pioneers of modern Etna wine production. In 2000, Franchetti acquired nearly abandoned vineyards in Passopisciaro located in the district of Castiglione di Sicilia on the north slope of Etna. What was left of the vines dated back more than a century. Franchetti invested in restoration and reinvigoration of the vines. Local farmers gasped when Franchetti told them to cut back the vine clusters to produce fewer grapes with more concentration. The tradition had been to focus on quantity production over quality.
Passopisciaro vineyard in Contrade Rampante
Etna Nord produces renowned reds from the native Nerello Mascalese, often blended with small amounts of Nerello Cappuccio, another local variety. Vineyard slopes line the Quota Mille and can reach altitudes exceeding 1000 meters. We visited several vineyards in different contrade (a contrada is a designated Etna production zone, and there are many) to get a sense of elevation. The styles of wines, here, clearly reflect both a vineyard’s geographic and historical provenance. These are vineyards shaped by centuries of volcanic eruptions. Each lava flow has impacted the mineral compositions of the soil.
Benjamin Franchetti follows in his late father’s footsteps overseeing Passopisciaro Srl. which includes Tenuta di Trinoro, the family estate in Val D’Orcia in Tuscany and Vini Franchetti in Etna. A mechanical engineer with a PhD, in mathematical modeling of fluid dynamic processes, Benjamin says his training brings a very precise approach to managing the day-to-day operations while keeping an eye on the future. He wants to continue his father’s legacy to pass on to his daughters. He says, “My father was the founder, and I consider myself the first generation of the estate. I look at this as building a bridge from generation to generation.”
Benjamin Franchetti
Benjamin told us “My father was not someone to follow the rules when it comes to making wines. DOC guidelines require wines be made with native Etna grapes such as Nerello Mascalese and Carricante, but Franchetti saw potential in this area to plant Chardonnay, Petit Verdot and Cesanese di Afflie, an Italian variety grown around Rome. These varieties are used in the estate’s excellent Terre Siciliane Passobianco 100% Chardonnay and Franchetti, a proprietary blend of Petit Verdot (70%), and Cesanese (30%) aged in barrique. The estate’s flagship wine, Franchetti is rich and ripe, delivering a bouquet of violets on the nose and appealing freshness and acidity on the palate.
Wines we tasted at Vini Franchetti
A few standouts of the Franchetti Etna DOC wines included S Contrada Rosso Etna DOC from Contrada Sciaranuova one of the higher contrade at 800 meters elevation This is 100% Nerello Mascalese from very old vines, some of which are up to 140 years old. Florals and perfumes dominate the nose, and the palate fills with hints of cherry and spice.
Another was R Contrada Rosso. a 100% Nerello Mascalese from the Rampante Contrada, which straddles the DOC height limit (about 850 meters with some being outside the zone and some inside. The grapes for this wine are grown above the Etna DOC line at approximately 1000 meters. Fruit is quite concentrated and portrays more tannins and acidity than grapes from lower altitude. Lots of power and strong tension.
Visitors are welcome by appointment. www.vinifranchetti.com. We recommend staying at the nearby Etna Quote Mille agriturismo hotel which has a popular on-site restaurant.
Listen to this show here which aired October 16 here: The Connected Table Live with Benjamin Franchetti.