An invitation to a destination wedding in Hydra, Greece, is hard to pass up, even if it is taking place in the high, hot summer season. Located in the Saronic Gulf about a ninety-minute ferry ride from Athens, Hydra (or Ydra) is a world apart from the crowds and cars of Greece’s capital city. Hydra is one of the few places in the world where cars are banned. Transportation is by mule, water taxi or foot. When you arrive at the ferry dock, a pack of mules waits to carry your luggage to your hotel or bed & breakfast. You can also hire a porter with a hand cart to transport your luggage, which is what we did to get our bags to the Hotel Orloff where we stayed.
Hydra harbor
Hydra is built on rocky hills overlooking a deep blue sea. Bring comfortable flat walking shoes to navigate the cobblestone streets and steep hills and a brimmed hat and sun cream to protect your skin. Hydra has beautiful vistas but few shade trees. The ampitheater-shaped main harbor is the center of action from dawn to midnight. It’s lined with shops selling chic Greek fashion souvenirs and numerous cars and cafes. People-watching while sipping a cup of Greek coffee, a glass of Greek wine or Ouzo mixed with water is part of the action.
Mules line up to transport luggage and packages in Hydra harbor
Venture to the harbor in the early mornings to watch cargo ships drop off supplies from the mainland, from crates of bottled water to fresh foods and household items. Mules carry people and packages through the narrow streets. Passenger ferries transport tourists including many day trippers from Athens. During weekends multi-million dollar yachts drop anchor in the harbor to let their well-heeled passengers access the shops and restaurants. Small water taxis pull in and out throughout the day to transport people to Hydra’s many beaches. Early evening people gather to view Hydra’s golden hour of sunset and then stroll to a cafe for a late night dinner.
Mega-Yacht in Hydra’s harbor at night
Named for the deep waters surrounding the island. Hydra has a rich maritime history as a center and naval base that had a pivotal role in the 1821 Greek War of Independence. Many of the whitewashed houses that line the harbor belonged to ship captains. Today, Hydra’s strict architectural codes require new construction to adhere to the traditional designs of the eighteenth century. Two good place to learn about Hydra’s history are the Lazaros Koundouriotis Mansion that now serves as the island’s National Historic Museum, and the Tsamados Mansion which now houses the world’s oldest operating maritime academy.
Hydra as long been a retreat for writers, artists and musicians. The most documented is Canadian songwriter, Leonard Cohen, who composed lyrics while residing in Hydra in the 1960s. There is a bench dedicated to him along a hilly walking path overlooking the sea between the main harbor and Plakes beach. The island has long been a popular location for films. In 1957 the release of “Boy on a Dolphin” starring Sophia Loren brought considerable attention to Hydra. Most recently Actor Brad Pitt was spotted filming “The Riders” in Hydra. Brad Pitt Begins Filming in Hydra as Greece’s Film Industry Hits €1 Billion Milestone – Greek City Times. Of course, local island residents are used to high wattage guests and discreetly respect their privacy.
The Boy and Dolphin Statue
Naturally, the sea is a big attraction. Most of Hydra’s beaches are rocky, and many require transport by water taxi. We stayed closer to the main harbor walked to a few beaches that had rentable chaises with shade covers. These included Mandraki Beach Resort, Mikro Kamini in front of the Castello Hydra Restaurant and the Bellavalia Resort at Plakes Beach. Closer to the harbor, Spilia Beach Bar and Hydronetta Beach both lead to platforms and rocky outcrops for sunbathing and diving into the water.
Where to Stay in Town
Hydra has several small hotels and bed and breakfasts. We chose the Orloff, a luxury boutique hotel located in an historic mansion an easy walk to the harbor. The Orloff’s history intrigued us did its lack of steps. Many hotels on this island involve stairs. The Orloff was built in 1796 by Count Orlov. The original site was an old convent. We stayed in a superior room with a private patio in the historic Monasterio building. A short walk away are the Orloff’s four newer “Legacy” luxury apartments
Built by Count Orlov in 1796 The Orloff Hotel also served as a convent. Today it is a luxury hotel.
The Orloff’s current longtime owners are Petros and Maria Klakadis, a charming couple who greeted us every morning when we settled in for breakfast in the hotel’s beautiful walled private garden. We recommend The Orloff for its charm, service and location. www.orloff.gr Just across the street is Rafalias Pharmacy, a family-run pharmacy since 1890 recognized for both its customized herbal salves & potions and its architectural heritage.
Hydra Golden Hour Sunday – Photo taken from our table at The Windmill Hydra
Spots to view Hydra’s sunset
Hydra’s sunset over the water truly is spectacular, and we tried to enjoy the golden hour every evening before heading off to dinner. Our favorite spot is The Windmill Hydra, a cliffside location with bar built into an eighteenth century windmill named for Sophia Loren, who filmed scenes for the “Boy and the Dolphin” at this location. Steps away is a statue of the Boy on a Dolphin.
Other places close by to enjoy the sunset and a nice meal include: Sunset Restaurant www.sunsethydra.com, Spilia Beach Club and Omilos Hydra
Where to Dine
Hydra has many restaurants from fine dining to casual cafes and ice cream shops. our visit included organized wedding events over three days. Here are a few places we suggest.
Oraea Hydra in the main harbor became our “spot” for sublime grilled calamari, cuttlefish and simple Cretan and Greek salads.
Grilled stuffed calamari at Oraea Hydra
Omilos is a romantic restaurant overlooking the water, ideal for sunsets and evening dinners. Diners rave over Chef Dimitris Kantarakis’ menus which are higher concept. Examples just with the starters include: marinated seabass, espelet, sea urchin and olive oil infused with celery, tacos crayfish and scallops tartare in savoy cabbage, avocado and sour cream, XO sauce and Puff crab, coconut milk, lime, coriander, chili and avocado.
Omilos (Photo from restaurant website)
LuLu’s Tavern (Kalamara Brothers) is one of the oldest traditional Greek taverns on Hydra, along a narrow street not far from the harbor. It is a nice place for traditional food and the giant fig trees provide ample shade and ambiance.
Other attractions
If you are up for a hike or escorted mule ride up to Hydra’s isolated monateries, enjoy the advanture. We preferred to stay close to the water to beat the summer heat! And we took a short ferry ride to the nearby island of Spetses to have lunch with friends who live there.
As for the wedding, the traditional Greek Orthodox ceremony conduct by three priests was an experience unto itself! The bride and groom remain silent during a ceremony that resembles a marriage coronation. There were three days of celebrations capped off by fireworks and a beachside “day after” party. We feel very lucky to have experienced both the wedding and enchantment of Hydra.
The wedding reception dinner set up at the Spilia Beach Bar