At first glance the Island of Gorgona resembles an off- the- beaten -track vacation spot located 20 miles off the Ligurian coast. The turquoise color of the water shimmered in the sun as our boat from Livorno approached the island’s docking cove which sheltered a small horseshoe-shaped beach. Colorfully painted buildings, landscaped gardens and mural art were set against the steep rocks.
The view as our boat approached the island of Gorgona
But look closer and you’ll see armed guards, barbed wire fences, security checkpoints and signs that read “Penitentiary.” Those who check in to Gorgona have very long stays. Sometimes they never leave.
We went to learn about the Gorgona Wine Project, a collaboration between Marchesi di Frescobaldi and this correctional institution, which is located on the island, part of the Tuscan Archipelago National Park.
Here, incarcerated inmates acquire valuable skills by working in the vineyards and learning about winemaking. They can smell the wine but are not allowed to taste it. Writers and wine industry folks from around the world, are allowed to visit the island on an escorted day trip one day each June. We were lucky this year’s date coincided with other Italy travel plans.
Lamberto Frescobaldi, Marchesi di Frescobaldi (left) with Giuseppe Renna, Director of the Gorgona Penitentiary addressing the guests.
Lamberto Frescobaldi, 30th generation member of the noble winemaking family with six estates throughout Tuscany, spearheads the Frescobaldi for Social Responsibility Project. Frescobaldi led our group on a tour of the terraced vineyards which were first planted in 1999 using the Guyot system. We were impressed that he kept his suit jacket on despite the sweltering heat. Frescobaldi’s team thoughtfully positioned hydration stations around the trail which was quite hilly. During our walk we also past stables for sheep and cows. We saw two inmates working in the vineyards.
The first Gorgona vintage was released in 2012 and presented to the Department of Penitentiary Administration in Rome. In 2014, Frescobaldi signed an agreement with the correctional institution to hire the inmates directly. Between 2015 and 2017, the inmates planted more vineyards and have helped restore the dry-stone walls that support the terraces. The viticultural skills the inmates learn under Frescobaldi prepare them for jobs after they are released from the penitentiary.
Gorgona Toscana IGT is a crisp, aromatic white made from Vermentino and Ansonica. It is organic with 12.5% ABV. During our visit, the 2024 released was unveiled with fanfare. After a priest blessed the new wine, there was a celebratory uncorking and light lunch. Our tasting notes for the 2024 Gorgona included: ginestra yellow flowers, honeysuckle, citrus, bergamot and sage.
About 100 wine writers, influencers, trade guests and other VIPS including an ambassador were on hand for the wine’s unveiling and lunch set up on a large terrace overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. The elegance of the lunch was stark contrast to the fact we were in a penitentiary where we saw inmates sitting behind chained gates sunning themselves under the watchful eyes of prison guards.
After the tour and lunch, our group strolled down to towards the landing cove and the beach to wait for the boat’s return. As we had some time, a number of us dipped out toes in the warm water of the sea. A couple of us event went for a swim. One has to wonder if any of the resident prisoners are afforded the same opportunity.
An official penitentiary car in front of the dove, a symbol of peace.
There are only two ways to enter Gorgona which is accessible by a boat from Livorno. The first is to be among the lucky ones invited for the one-day visit every June. That included us in 2025. The other way is to commit a crime worthy of incarceration on the island. We were told many prisoners request Gorgona for their prison terms because of the setting and work experience.
As we were boating back to Livorno with the beautiful island fading into the sunset, it did not go unnoticed by the group that we were able to do the one thing that the prisoners were not – leave the island.
Gorgona wine is imported by Vintus in the U.S.A.
Photos taken by Melanie Young.
