In the Tuscan region of the Maremma, Rocca di Frassinello is the brainchild and joint venture between media magnate, Paolo Panerai, owner of Domini Castellare di Castellina, and Baron Eric de Rothschild of Chateau Lafite, owner of the legendary Bordeaux first growth property. Both Panerai and Baron de Rothschild are passionate about the intersection of art, design and fine wine. These elements are found throughout the winery starting with its design conceived by renowned Italian architect, Renzo Piano. In the U.S.A., Piano’s works can be seen in several cities including New York City’s Whitney Museum of Art, Morgan Library and Museum, and The New York Times headquarters.
Rocca di Frassinello in the Maremma Photo: Alexandra Romano
Rocca di Frassinello sits high on a hill near the town of Giuncarico in the municipality of Gavorrano. Much of the estate’s 500 hectares are a preserve with two on-site manmade lakes; ninety hectares are vineyards. The building’s design is a modern masterpiece of red brick and glass. Enter the monumental glass-enclosed welcome center pavilion and terrace with its 360-degree view and terracotta tower. Below the structure, the cellar is a quiet amphitheater containing 2,000 barrels that feels like a temple to wine. Here rests Rocca di Frassinello’s world-class Super Tuscan wines, including the collectable Baffonero, a 100% Merlot, often considered the “Petrus of Tuscany.”
Barrel room at Rocca di Frassinello Photo provided by the winery
Excavating the land, the founders discovered ancient Etruscan artifacts including objects from the Necropolis of San Gennaro. These precious remnants are on display at Rocca di Frassinello’s interactive museum close to the barrel room.
Etruscan artifacts on display at Rocca di Frassinello’s museum
One of the most significant works of art in the central pavilion is the painting ”Rapture of the Grape” by renowned American artist David LaChapelle.” This work of art was also recreated as a wine label for Rocca di Frassinello’s limited edition tenth vintage anniversary wine.
Rapture of the Grape by David LaChapelle. Displayed at Rocca di Frassinello
The name Rocca di Frassinello means “Fortress of Frassinello.” We also learned the word “frassinello” likely refers to the small ash trees (frassino) that once grew in the area. The vineyards cultivate Sangioveto (a Sangiovese clone from Castellare di Castellina), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Vermentino. The estate’s geographic footprint has similar soil characteristics to those in Bolgheri: clay, limestone, sea fossil, and iron oxide. The soils here are quite mineral rich, and this minerality shows in the wines.
Enologist Alessandro Cellai serves as Managing Director and Head Winemaker for all four of Domini Castellare di Castellina (DCC) estates which incude two Tuscan estates: Rocca di Frassinello in the Maremma and Castellare di Castellina in Chianti Classico, and two in Sicily: Feudo del Pisciotto and Gurra de Mare. Cellai was a longtime protégé of the late enologist, Giacomo Tachis, considered the “Father of Super Tuscans.” It was Tachis who tapped him to head up the DCC estates.
At our tasting and dinner at Rocca di Frassinello in May, we were joined by Massimo Casagrande, the estate’s longtime Technical Director. Our dinner was prepared by Rocca di Frassinello’s on-site chef with the wine pairings in mind.
Wines we tasted:
Rocca di Frassinello Bianco 2022 IGT Toscano. Stainless steel tank-fermented, with bâtonnage, this proprietary blend spent nine months on lees prior to bottling. Herbaceous notes with hints of lemongrass, kiwi, and slate.
Ornello 2023 IGT Toscana is a blend of Sangiovese (40%), Syrah (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and Merlot (10%). Notes of dark red and blackberries, spice and moss. A pleasant medium bodied wine filled with fruit, Ornello was originally created for the U.S. market, and has since expanded to global distribution. This is the only wine in the range with a small portion of Syrah which adds earthiness to the wine.
Rocca di Frassinello 2021 IGT Toscana is the winery’s original version of a Super Tuscan and a blend of Sangiovese (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), and Merlot (20%) aged 24 months in barrique. A soft and silky wine of dark red berries- currants, cherries, eucalyptus and mint with lovely fine tannins.
Baffonero 2021 is the estate’s first single varietal, 100% Merlot, this is a plush wine of black berries, currants, spice and dark chocolate. Legend has it, this wine was named for a wild boar hunter who once lived in the area who had a distinguished black mustache (baffonero). The vineyard site was specifically planted to Merlot due to the abundance of galestro (porous clay and limestone) in the soil composition – soils in which Merlot, in particular, excels. Low harvest yields are macerated and fermented in concrete before spending 24 months in barriques.
Rocca di Frassinello offers different tasting experiences
Rocca di Frassinello welcomes tour visits by appointment and several tasting experiences. There are a few modern guest rooms to rent; each has a patio overlooking the olive groves. Information on winery: Rocca di Frassinello » Domini Castellare
Information on Tuscan Wine and Food Trails in this region can be found at these websites: